The Untapped Potential of Vintage Running

Vintage has a story and relays knowledge of and participation in a subculture.

In last Monday’s post I looked at skateboarding’s larger cultural impact and made several comparisons to running.

The feedback and conversation was awesome, please keep it coming. Several of you brought up the counterculture aspect of skateboarding and some saw that within trail running but felt it didn’t exist in road. Some felt runners are too type-A and structured as opposed to more artistic skateboarders. Traditionally I would agree with these statements but since COVID, running has changed and as we sit here in 2024 I really don’t agree.

I also had a phone conversation with someone looking to start a more fashion forward run shop in NYC - an idea I loved. This topic really got me thinking about streetwear more specifically. That might be the area where skateboarding has really had staying power (vs. music, video games, etc.)

So what is the current state of streetwear? How might running fit in?

There are a load of articles attempting to answer that question.

A recent article from London-based consulting firm edition+partners discussed how the pandemic upended streetwear. Was it dead? No, it just evolved. They hit on four main points that are shaping the future of streetwear going forward. They are

1. originality

2. curation

3. vintage

4. community.

“Today, a new customer is defining ‘streetwear.’ More savvy and knowledgeable, these individuals still buy streetwear but combine it with unique luxury and vintage products they curate to exhibit individuality and cultural understanding.”

Based on their research, the narrative is that the new streetwear customer wants to be unique and has a tight budget so they are more discerning about what to buy and seek to add value by looking to vintage to accent more current luxury items. Vintage adds a storytelling component and expresses knowledge of and participation in a niche or subculture. They go on to cite the rise of run crews as an example of subculture participation.

Interesting.

"At its core, streetwear is a category that’s still defined by its connection to niche subcultures and communities. . . . No longer tied to unapologetic consumption, they seek community around real places and achieve status through participation and dedication.

Love it.

So if one were looking to mix vintage pieces as accents into their wardrobe to express knowledge of and participation in running subculture, what might they find?

I was genuinely curious and interested so I’m here to fill you all in on my deep dive.

I did a lot of searching on Ebay and Poshmark to pull some items that spoke to me from a fashion angle or as a reflection of knowledge and participation in running.

Old race shirts are the most ubiquitous item out there and there are a billion of them.

NYC Marathon

The NYC Marathon is a couple weeks away and there is no shortage of really cool T’s available. The map of the course on the left was aesthetically pleasing. The ringer T in the center pic jumped out at me. I was surprised to find a shirt from Kappa from 1982 (right). Being a soccer guy I love that brand - would love to see them back in running.

Boston Marathon

Boston also has a large assortment of T’s. I like the simple old BAA logo shirt on the left. The 1987 shirt represents victories by the great Toshihiko Seko from Japan (two wins) and Rosa Mota from Portugal (three wins).

T-shirts

A load of other race and sport related T’s jumped out at me. Some classic designs from LA, Chicago, Penn Relays and London. The London T from 1990 on the center-right is one of my absolute favorites. The original Pre’s Trail Run ‘76 T-shirt in the center is listed for $700 on Ebay. Something about the art angle on the Mona Lisa graphic was really interesting. Can an art history POV be a cool brand aesthetic? The Penn Relays graphic was a really cool and dramatic design. Steve Jones set a world record at the 1984 Chicago Marathon. Rosa Mota won again for the women that year.

Jackets

There are also a load of old running jackets listed. Many are in the old coach’s jacket style which reek of streetwear (bottom left and bottom center). Other race oriented jackets from Asics and Adidas had the occasional cool style. Over its long sponsorship of Boston there have been a handful of worthwhile Adidas jackets (top left and top center). Top right is a Brooks jacket. As I scrolled through search results I found myself drawn to the old Brooks logo far more than the current one.

Vests

I was surprised that I liked several vest options that popped up. Adidas leading the charge here. The 1994 Chicago vest (left) was an interesting one. The novelty of it kept it included. The vest overall isn’t a style we see very often but in my experience it’s super practical for running when it’s cold out. I’d love to see more vest options out there for both performance and lifestyle.

Tanks

Tanks are a classic option and the retro styles are cooler than current styles IMO. The mesh tanks are such a throwback but the 1964 Japan kit from the Tokyo Olympics was the absolute top. It’s from Mizuno and the texture of the fabric is incredible. It’s a super premium vibe. Check it out:

I’m looking at the product designers out there and hoping we incorporate more of these styles/designs/colors/fabrics into current products as well. I would love to see it from a lifestyle angle. Could it also have application in performance?

Of note was the massive absence of women’s clothing. The availability of men’s clothing was orders of magnitude larger than that of women’s. Also, very little trail related items. It’s virtually all men’s road running.

Nonetheless, I ended my search thinking about the untapped potential in this area not just from an actual vintage market but the inspiration that could be drawn for new product. We see some retro shoe releases but very few apparel releases or even nods in the vintage styling. I think it’s a huge opportunity going forward and the time seems to be now.

Which brands/shops/crews are putting out apparel right now that hits on these ideas? Who should I know about?

Which brands and products have you seen currently available that speak to this new streetwear customer that seeks to mix vintage with more current items?

Which vintage items would you absolutely buy and wear as a nod to your experience in run culture? Is there a specific shirt, jacket or hat you’ve seen that is amazing?

Let me know in the comments!

Next week I’ll step away from the cultural/streetwear angle to dive into current run specialty. Excited for this one.

Subscribe and stay tuned.

One last thing . . .

In the process of writing this I discovered a deck of cards created by Brian Eno back in the ‘70s for musicians to use when they are stuck in their creative process. They are a really cool way to shock your thinking into taking a different approach to a creative problem. They’ve been used by R.E.M., Coldplay, David Bowie, Phoenix, MGMT, among many others. They’re called “Oblique Strategies”. Here’s a digital version. I ordered a physical deck.